Tag Archives: life
Image tajburrow23.jpg

18.60 points: Taj Burrow leaves the Dream Tour on a high

Cloudbreak delivered building six-to-eight foot (2 – 2.5 meter) waves, and John John Florence and Taj Burrow surfed the heat of the season. When someone loses a heat with a total score of 18.60 points, it’s easy to guess what happened. Taj Burrow, 38, rode the last wave of his 18-year career on the Championship […]

Image aarongold3.jpg

Jaws dominated the 2015/2016 Big Wave Awards

Shane Dorian’s performance at Jaws won “Ride of the Year” at the 2015/2016 World Surf League (WSL) Big Wave Awards, held at Grove Theater, in Anaheim, California. The experienced hellman had two rides at Jaws competing for the most prestigious award in big wave surfing, but it was his last one (February 10th) that won […]

Image williamfinnegan.jpg

William Finnegan, author of "Barbarian Days," wins the 2016 Pulitzer Prize

William Finnegan has won the 2016 Pulitzer Prize (Biography or Autobiography) for his “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life.” The New York writer’s surf book was considered a “finely crafted memoir of a youthful obsession” by the Pulitzer Prize Board. Finnegan takes home $10,000 and one of the most prestigious awards in Arts and Letters. In […]

Image masonflorence.jpg

John John Florence wins the 2015/2016 Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau

John John Florence has conquered the 2015/2016 Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau, in historical 45-to-60-foot surf, and occasional closeouts, at Waimea Bay. Brock’s Swell – sent by the late Brock Little – raised the bar for human greatness. Kelly Slater brought his giant black gun, and he was all smiles before paddling out into hell. […]

Image niclamb3.jpg

Nic Lamb wins the Titans of Mavericks

Nic Lamb has conquered the inaugural edition of the Titans of Mavericks, at Half Moon Bay, in Northern California. The big wave invitational got underway in 20-to-30-foot surf and light onshore winds. There were air drops, injuries, vertical commitments, shark sightings, and unexpected freak sets in a cold water environment. Mavs is wipeout land. It’s […]

Image albeelayer2.jpg

Albee Layer survives a dangerous wipeout at Jaws

Albee Layer suffered a massive wipeout at Jaws, Maui. He will be out of the water for while. The Hawaiian big wave hellman has had a fantastic season at Peahi but, this time, the beast wave almost claimed his life. Layer knew there wouldn’t be enough swell to run “The Eddie,” so he stayed in […]

Image silveiranichols.jpg

Lucas Silveira and Isabella Nichols win the 2016 World Junior Championships

Lucas Silveira and Isabella Nichols have been crowned winners of the 2016 Ericeira World Junior Championships, at Ribeira d’Ilhas, in Portugal. The finals got underway in clean three-to-four foot waves at the iconic European point break. The Brazilian surfer Lucas Silveira defeated Timothee Bisso in the decisive heat. “I’m trembling right now; it’s been a […]

Image mikidora.jpg

The best quotes by Miki Dora

Miki Dora is one the brightest legends in the history of surfing. The sport’s heroic antihero lived 67 years and left a rich legacy of ideas, concepts, expressions, thoughts, and theories. The most famous quotations by Miki Dora tell us what he was, and what he wanted to be. The undisputed “King of Malibu,” the […]

Image willskudin.jpg

Is this the biggest wave ever paddled at Nazaré?

Will Skudin may have paddled into the biggest, and most critical wave ever at Praia do Norte, in Nazaré, Portugal. Wave measuring is not a science. You can never accurately tell how big an ocean wave is, but you can definitely make comparisons. And the surfer from Long Beach, New York, has reasons to celebrate […]

Image kellyslater93.jpg

Kelly Slater: "I have every intention of being 90 and surfing Backdoor and Pipeline"

Kelly Slater, the greatest competitive surfer of all time, has confirmed he will compete in the 2016 World Surf League Men’s Championship Tour. The 11-time world surfing champion is not quitting. The 43-year-old Floridian has told British newspaper The Guardian he will return in 2016. Slater has also opened up about his personal life. “My […]

Scroll Up