Tag Archives: life
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Adriano de Souza: "The day of my life has arrived"

The Brazilian Storm has taken control of the surfing world. One year after Gabriel Medina, the hard-working man claims his moment of glory with a maiden World Surf League title and a victory in the prestigious Billabong Pipe Masters. Adriano de Souza has lived the best day of his entire surfing career. He is the number […]

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The ultimate biography of Duke Kahanamoku

Every surfer should drop into the life story of Duke Kahanamoku. Fortunately, “Waterman: The Life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku” has been published. Duke Kahanamoku is one of the most influential people in the history of surfing. He is widely recognized as the father of modern surfing, and he is the man responsible for introducing surfing […]

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Mick Fanning challenges fear at Shipstern Bluff

Mick Fanning has ridden some of the thickest and most dangerous waves of his life, at Shipstern Bluff, in Tasmania. The Australian surfing champion returned from Teahupoo and immediately traveled to Devil’s Point with big wave surfer Mark Mathews. The iconic reef break was pumping solid barrels. “Had the funnest day ever yesterday with the […]

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Jeremy Flores wins the 2015 Billabong Pro Tahiti

Jeremy Flores defeated Gabriel Medina to claim the 2015 Billabong Pro Tahiti, at Teahupoo. The “Helmet Man” played a tactical game to secure the second victory on the Championship Tour (CT). Flores opened the final with an excellent 9.87-point ride, a wave that would be critical to success. “Gabriel is one tactical guy, so I […]

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Surf dog Ricochet goes surfing with two special sisters

Two teenage sisters with the same terminal illness have hit the surf with surf dog Ricochet, in San Diego. Savannah (17) and Bellamy Arterburn (19) suffer from Friedreich’s Ataxia, a rare, debilitating and degenerative neuro-muscular disorder that causes movement problems, and has no treatment or cure. Despite undergoing multiple spine surgeries, both sisters are losing […]

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Wingsuit pilot and big wave surfer risk lives in "Liftoff"

What do a wingsuit pilot and a big wave surfer have in common? They are about to “Liftoff.” Jokke Sommer has always been fascinated by anything that could fly and dreamed about flying every day. After seeing dozens of wingsuit flying videos, there was no doubt that this was what he wanted to do. Today, […]

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Is this the worst wipeout ever at Teahupoo?

Niccolo Porcella has suffered one of the worst wipeouts of all time in Teahupoo, Tahiti. The Italian big wave surfer caught a huge wave, got barreled, and then the powerful cannon swallowed him up. The stunt will certainly enter the gallery of the most dangerous wipeouts of 2015. “Feeling beyond! With a lot of training […]

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For Greg Long, fear is part of the thrill

Fear is a liberating drug, but if you’re a big wave surfer, it can kill you. Greg Long was invited to share is near-death experience in Cortes Bank, at the National Geographic Live series. “I do feel fear,” Greg Long confirms. The problem is that fear almost ruled his life, with real consequences. When the […]

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"Man vs Wave" depicts Al Mennie’s extreme surf training

Al Mennie’s wave hunts have attracted the attention of British public-service television broadcaster Channel 4. The result is “Man vs Wave”. Alastair Mennie is not your average big wave surfer. He likes to surf whatever the conditions are, he writes his own books, and he is a Krav Maga instructor, and he gives lectures and […]

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Paddle Pillow eases the paddling back pain

Whether you’re young or old, novice or veteran surfer, sooner or later you’ll feel that pain on your lower back. Paddle Pillow promises to give you more water time. It’s a very simple idea, and sometimes it’s just all you need. All surfers have felt it. When we’re surfing too much, it hurts. The Paddle […]

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