EXPRESS YOURSELF 

Many people have watched surfers from the beach or from the comfort of their lounge, and wondered just what it must feel like to fly down the face of a heaving wall of water, power out of a bottom turn launching towards the lip and smashing a turn off the top being momentarily weightless, fall then compress to do it again and again, whilst your feet hum from the rushing water under your board.

It could be the serenity amidst the violence that is the green room or barrel that causes such wonder, being cocooned by cascading water, feeling the smooth water rushing between your fingertips as you caress the walls or ceiling of a barrel  (to some of us it’s a living, breathing, beautiful beast ).

For some it could be that moment when, after many frustrating attempts at an aerial manoeuvre, you feel your fins break the chains that bind you to the water, flying across the white-water, seeing it pass under your feet, and then miraculously land on a perfect down ramp sling-shotting you forward into another turn.

For a surfer, these moments almost stop time itself, or at least slow it right down, though immediately after the event they seem to have passed so quickly, only to be relived over and over long after you leave the water.

It’s no wonder that surfing is so addictive. Whether you do it for the challenge, for fitness, to be close to the ocean or any other reason, there is a place where all reasons intersect.

We All Do it For The Feeling.

At the recent 2011 Quiksilver Pro France, surfers got a break from the competition and took part in an ‘Expression Session’.

Check out some awesome moves set to cool tunes,  here:

At Epic Surf we invite you to share your experiences, feelings, memories, and general froth in the comments, or use the Contact form and we’ll get in touch with you, so go-on, get your froth-on and share!

Head over to the forums, and create your own groups and start discussions.

via: the xpression sessions