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16 legendary California surfing beaches

In certain places, the California coastline is no less beautiful than Hawaii. In fact, one could refer to the golden sands and luxurious green foliage of the Carmel, Point Lobos, and Big Sur area and say that Hawaii was a more tropical continuation of this most dramatic part of California. Other parts of the southern […]

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The best stretching and strengthening exercises for surfers

Surfers can enhance their riding abilities by maintaining a healthy body and mind through fitness and exercises. Whether you are an athlete or simply want to improve your skills and ride better and avoid injury, it’s critical to stay fit throughout the year. Through extensive research and consultation with many personal trainers and physiotherapists, it […]

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Surfing: a reflection on health and the ideal lifestyle

If I were asked to select one single aspect of surfing which stands out above all others, I would undoubtedly select the permanent increase which the neophyte surfer can expect in health and fitness. The people responsible for President Kennedy’s exercise campaign could well consider a resolution to get everybody in this country to take […]

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The day I discovered the Pupukea surf

Larry and George Segedin lived together in a white house near the top of the inhabited part of the Punchbowl Crater. There Larry did his renderings for various architects, and George was studying for registration exams to become a professional engineer. He had previously spent many years in the Philippines and the Far East as […]

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Joan Duru and Sally Fitzgibbons win 2021 World Surfing Games

Joan Duru and Sally Fitzgibbons have taken out the 2021 ISA World Surfing Games at La Bocana in El Salvador. The last qualifying event for Tokyo 2020 defined the 20 male and 20 female surfers representing the sport for the first time in the Olympic Games. There will be 40 athletes from 17 countries competing […]

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The best summer quotes of all time

The warm weather is where you find it. Discover the best quotes about summer you will ever read. For many people, summer is the best and most inspiring season of the year. And it is obvious why. It’s a time for relaxing, enjoying life outdoors, going to beautiful beaches, stepping barefoot on the warm sand, […]

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My return to surfing in Hawaii

I arrived back in Hawaii in May 1960, under entirely different conditions, together with my friend, Raphael Soriano, the noted California architect, who was looking into the potential of erecting some of his beautiful steel houses on the Islands. I was shocked at what I saw. The developers had gotten their hooks into Waikiki, and […]

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10 weird waves you should surf before you die

One of the great things about surfing is that you will never ride two identical waves. Sometimes, the best plan to break away from monotony, crowded lineups, and orthodoxy is to unfollow the norm and the informal, pre-established rules. Skateboarding, for instance, although a relatively new sport, found its own rebellious mode and quickly set a […]

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Why there are no bad surfboards

I own around ten surfboards. They’re all different and range from 6′ to 8’2”. Unfortunately, the only surfboard that I don’t have with me – but would pay good money for it – was the first I got when I was around 14 years old – a classic mistake. Today, I am 44 and have […]

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Surfing and nose riding explained by Newtonian physics

The physics of surfing is an enigma. In particular, it is unproven how a surfboard can grip the water with sufficient force to allow a surfer to stand at the tip of a surfboard while riding a wave, i.e., noseriding. In short, according to Newtonian mechanics, the wave pushes the surfboard upwards.

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