The first-ever Hawaiian world surfing champion suffered a heart stroke, slipped into a coma, and passed away at 55. Derek Ho was born on September 26, 1964, in Kailua, Hawaii. He rode his first wave at the age of three. During his teenage years, he was arrested several times. At the age of 18, he […]
The World Surf League (WSL) announced the cancellation of the 2020 Championship Tour (CT) and Qualifying Series (QS) seasons. The professional surfing circuit decided to put an end to this year’s competition due to the Covid-19 pandemic. “After extensive discussions with athletes, organizers, staff, and health authorities, we decided cancel the season,” notes Erik Logan, […]
The word “gnarly” is one of the most commonly used expressions in surf slang. Wave riders have been using it for decades. When the swell is pumping, and surfers are shredding out-the-back, then we know something gnarly is taking place. The expression often comes out of a surfer’s mouth when something simultaneously spectacular and unexpected […]
Flamboyant, fully-energized, exotic, passionate, and persistent. Fernando Aguerre is one of the most influential personalities in the surfing world. The history of surfing is often too much biased by an anglophone perspective of reality that completely distorts the sport’s evolution. Fernando Aguerre spent two decades advocating for the inclusion of surfing in the Olympic Games, […]
USA Surfing named Brett Simpson head Olympic surf team coach. The two-time US Open of Surfing winner was unanimously voted by the four surfers that will represent the United States in the upcoming Olympic Games. Kolohe Andino, Carissa Moore, Caroline Marks, and John John Florence are expected to represent their country next year in Tokyo.
Fear and panic are two separate emotions. Fear is healthy; panic is lethal. I have been surfing for the past six years now. I’m far from being a great surfer, but being 42 years old, I’m pretty happy with my decent level. Even if it sounds a bit cliché, surfing literally changed my life and […]
“The Surf Riders of Hawaii” is the first known book dedicated to surfing. The self-published book by Alfred Richard Gurrey Jr. contains a stunning series of early photographs of the sport. Dating to 1914, only several copies are known to exist. The book combines artistically rendered photo prints with romantic poetry from Lord Byron and […]
At only 22 years-old, Tahitian Lea Hahn has been climbing through the ranks of surf photography with her sharp, fresh perspective. Born and raised in French Polynesia, Hahn is the only professional female surf photographer on the island. She started her career in 2017 as a camerawoman shooting a surf movie from land.
Captain James Cook (1728-1779) and his sailing crew are credited with writing the first-ever description of wave riding before surfing was even considered a sport. James Cook was born on November 7, 1728, in Marton, Yorkshire, England. He was a British navigator, explorer, and cartographer who served in the Royal Navy from 1755 to 1779.
Padang Padang is a dreamy left-hand reef break located in the island of Bali, Indonesia. It’s one of the greatest surfing destinations on planet Earth. The spot produces a stunning, tropical green barreling wave and can be found just 1.5 miles northeast of Uluwatu. According to surf historians, the first person to ride Padang Padang […]