Choosing a surfboard in the 1960s

In ancient Hawaii, the making of a surfboard required great skill and patience, for after the wood had been cut, it had to be thoroughly seasoned. Since only stone implements were available to shape it, a year or more might elapse between felled tree and finished product. A good board became a prized possession, which […]

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In ancient Hawaii, the making of a surfboard required great skill and patience, for after the wood had been cut, it had to be thoroughly seasoned. Since only stone implements were available to shape it, a year or more might elapse between felled tree and finished product. A good board became a prized possession, which over the years was thought to acquire a spirit; this acquisition was aided by the incantations of the Kahunas – the high priests of surfing.

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Choosing a surfboard in the 1960s

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