Why do you surf? How do you explain the need to catch waves on a regular basis? We look at the most common reasons why people love surfing. It’s the sport of the kings and an ancient form of getting back to shore after a fruitful fishing session. But, what is surfing for you? We all know surfing is an old practice that became a sport and a pastime in the 20th century. Yet, there’s more to it that can’t be described. Surfers regularly feel the need to get back in the water. How do you explain that? Is that an uncontrolled desire a formulation of the brain? Why does surfing make us so happy with life and ourselves?

Continued here:
I surf because…

body, early, head, king, riding, sound, sport, surfing, surfing today, waves, world