Sooner or later, the ambition of most surfers leads them to think of the big surf. The fact that there are probably no more than 50 people alive who consistently ride the biggest waves and that these people are usually lifeguards or champion swimmers is no deterrent. The big surf is the secret aim of practically every surfer from the moment he first stands up at Waikiki or Huntington Beach, although perhaps he would be more cautious if he knew some of the facts.

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The big surf: a 1960s perspective

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