The physics of surfing
Nick Pizzo, postdoctoral researcher at Scripps Institution of Oceanography, created an insightful video about the physics of the waves. The science of waves is a complex and intricate set of variables in an equation with multiple outcomes. Pizzo uses theoretical and numerical tools to study nonlinear wave processes. Here’s how he describes the scientific phenomenon associated with […]
Nick Pizzo, postdoctoral researcher at Scripps Institution of Oceanography, created an insightful video about the physics of the waves. The science of waves is a complex and intricate set of variables in an equation with multiple outcomes. Pizzo uses theoretical and numerical tools to study nonlinear wave processes. Here’s how he describes the scientific phenomenon associated with surfing:
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The physics of surfing
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