The science of surf forecasting tells us that a swell brings a group of waves. But what are the variables playing in the equation until those waves hit the shoreline? The anatomy of waves is complex. We know that it all starts with the sun, and that wind acts as a mechanical architect of ocean waves. In other words, the surface of the sea is touched and propagates the energy until it finds a block. Every swell is unique. The most common mistake is when surfers set regular patterns of behavior and expect similar surfing conditions for “identical” forecasts. So what are the main characteristics of a swell?

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The variables of an ocean swell

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