Why you should never give up surfing
Relationships, work, health, relocations, aging, or even desire can keep you out of the surf, but there’s not one valid reason for one to give up on surfing. “He who is tired of surfing is tired of life.” The original quote had London instead of surfing, but the adaptation fits in perfectly. People go through […]
Relationships, work, health, relocations, aging, or even desire can keep you out of the surf, but there’s not one valid reason for one to give up on surfing. “He who is tired of surfing is tired of life.” The original quote had London instead of surfing, but the adaptation fits in perfectly. People go through cycles and moods throughout life. Sometimes, it just doesn’t feel like what it used to be anymore. The thrill is gone, our friends aren’t surfing on a regular basis, and you feel dramatically alone in the line-up.
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Why you should never give up surfing
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