Tag Archives: first

How to treat a sunburn

Sunburns are extremely dangerous. Know what to do when the skin is excessively exposed to the sun. Learn how to soothe the pain and treat a sunburn. The sun is one of the best providers of vitamin D, but sometimes a sunburn occurs when we least expect, for example, in the first days of spring.  […]

What is a groundswell?

What is the definition of groundswell? Why do surfers prefer long-period waves? Learn why are groundswells are better for surfing. Swells form when the wind, at a certain speed, duration and direction, blows over a distance of water called the fetch. When the first waves form, they begin to travel faster or slower, depending on […]

The compelling surf life story of Jay Moriarity

Jay Moriarity is the first surfing legend of the 21st century. His life was abruptly cut short at the age of 22, but his legacy will inspire many generations to come. James Michael Moriarity was born on June 16, 1978, in Augusta, Georgia. His parents – Doug and Christy – moved to Santa Cruz, California, […]

The day surfing became an Olympic sport

On August 3, 2016, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) confirmed surfing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. All IOC members unanimously approved the proposal to include surfing, for the first time in its history, in the Olympic movement. Fernando Aguerre, president of the International Surfing Association (ISA), fulfilled the dream of Duke Kahanamoku, the father […]

The worst food and drinks for surfers

You are what you eat and drink. There’s no other way to put it. So, if surfing is your top priority, protect yourself and don’t underestimate the power of unhealthy nutrients. Your body is your temple. If you allow it to absorb food and drinks that are not welcome, your physique will respond and, ultimately, […]

The man who relearned to surf with one arm

This is the story of how Steve Brown reconnected with surfing, lost an arm, and returned to the surf zone for an emotional comeback. This is his diary. This is a dream come true. In 1973, during a college overseas study trip to Indonesia, Steve had a chance to spend some time at Kuta Beach, […]

Things you didn’t know about the original "Point Break"

It’s a cult movie, and one of the first Hollywood productions to feature big wave surfing. The original “Point Break” was released in 1991, but it stood the test of time. For many movie fans, “Point Break” is one of the best surf-inspired flicks of all time. The film had it all; an irresistible blend […]

Things you didn’t know about "The Endless Summer"

“On any day of the year, it’s summer somewhere in the world.” Everything about “The Endless Summer” is perfect. The motto, the movie title, the promotional posters, the soundtrack, the narration, and the waves. Here’s everything you need to know about Bruce Brown’s ultimate surfing movie. Can you imagine the world without DVDs, smartphones, internet […]

The glossary of surf forecasting terms

What is the definition of swell? What are the parts of a wave? What the most important surf forecasting terms? How do you name the highest part of a wave? Surf science has its own expressions. That is why we’ve decided to “translate” some of the most relevant wave terms. Surf forecasting is the art […]

David Langer: "My board at Nazaré’s Surfer Wall is always ready to go"

David Langer says that on January 10, 2014, “a single moment on a single wave changed his life forever.” That moment was a beautiful barrel, and the wave was Jaws/Peahi. Today, the big wave surfer lives and breathes Nazaré. The Californian fell in love with Praia do Norte, and the Portuguese fishing town adopted him […]

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