A postdoctoral researcher, who also happens to be a surfer, has identified the precise location on the wave where a surfer finds the greatest speed. According to the physics of a wave, the mathematical sweet spot is right inside the curl, in an area commonly known as the “pocket.” “I was surprised that I finally […]
The Atlantic Hurricane season kicks off June 1st and ends November 30th. In the East Pacific Ocean, the hurricane season starts earlier – on May 15th – and also ends November 30th. So, why and when should you not paddle out for a few waves? Be out of shape. Hurricanes are small storms, and the […]
Big wave surfers are storm chasers. They travel the world in search of the largest swells. But what exactly are hurricane-generated waves? Science tells us that the barometric pressure in the eye of the hurricane is lower than the pressure some distance from the eye. Hurricanes are also known as tropical cyclones because they form […]